Before I began beekeeping, I whimsically imagined a beekeeper visiting the hive once in a while to check honey progress and/or harvest some honey, as they whispered quietly to the buzzy masses. The relationship and understanding between beekeeper and bees would gently grow over time. And that was pretty much it. So I thought. Definitely sounds like a romantic ideal hobby (which I’m pretty sure most backyard beekeepers would love), and likely describes what beekeeping was like 50 years ago.
However, since I’ve begun this journey, I have learned about all sorts of pests and diseases a beekeeper must regularly monitor for to maintain the health of the colony. Sadly, we now live in a time when not only humans but also our pets, the flora, the fauna, and the entire ecosystem fight a variety of crazy, unheard-of, or previously uncommon diseases. Pests that may have been easy to control can now readily dominate our yards and gardens. Bees are no exception.
Many honey bee pests can be managed if the colony is large and bustling. Although delicate as individuals, a beehive’s strength is in its numbers. The more bees there are in a colony, the greater the ability to avert threatening “invasions”, including little pests like Small Hive Beetles (SHB) and Wax Moths, which are found here, in western North Carolina.
These two particular insects don’t directly attack bees. Instead, they love the inside of the hive, for laying eggs, which hatch and feed on the pollen, wax, honey, and even brood (bees in the larva stage). Fantastic idea for the wax moth and SHB mothers (that’s not really a curse word)! But the destruction of wax (as they tunnel through), as well as larvae feces, can lead to sickness, bee and honey losses. And losing too many bee larvae lowers numbers, ultimately weakening the colony. If either pest is not controlled, you will find cocoons, webbing, and piles of white grubs on your frames, in the case of the wax moths. And the worst-case scenario with the small hive beetle, leads the colony to abandon the hive to a smelly, brown, runny slime that requires serious clean-up. Kinda gross, eh?
However, when a colony is large, they can guard the doors and even chase and harass the pests inside the hive so that the colony is not over-run. This means a beekeeper needs to stay alert to the rise or season of pests in their area. There ARE methods, tools, and treatments for helping the little bees stay strong. Again, this requires homework and a budget. A mentor is a great idea!
Another evil pest that requires a lot of attention are Varroa Destructor mites. These tiny mites first arrived in the US in the 1980’s and have caused a HUGE upset in the apiarist community. They are extremely hard to control, resistant to many treatments, and reproduce so quickly that even a large colony can be overcome and collapse (die off) in just one beekeeping season. (I actually learned this the hard way, likely losing a colony to Varroa mites).
The only way to help the bees combat Varroa is by using a variety of methods at the same time. For instance, there are studies being done about where and how to place frames within the hive, experiments on using essential oils to repel the mites, differing dosages of chemical treatments (both synthetic and natural), and much more. All this is quite over-whelming to beekeepers, especially us new ones. It requires a lot of research and resources, and new equipment, (which definitely adds up in that first year).
Once a colony is weakened by the mites, diseases can quickly overtake the bees because their strength is in numbers. As the individual bees die off, there are fewer guards to protect the hive. It’s all very disheartening, and I suspect pest management is the main reason new beekeepers give up the hobby in just a few years.
One last type of pest I’m considering in today’s blog are the mammals that love honey. As of now, I have not had to fight off skunks, possums, and raccoons. I learned that by placing the hive about 1 foot off the ground, less damage is done to the hive itself, because when a small animal rises up on its hind legs, its exposed belly invites bee stings, so they learn quickly not to get into the bee box.
Mice love to winter in a beehive. So, if you add an entrance reducer in the fall, this allows space for the bees to enter and exit, but it’s too small for little mammals such as mice.
And then there are bears! We have many black bear in our area, but I have never actually seen one on our property (thanks to the neighbors’ dogs). Winnie the Pooh’s love of honey is no fable! Bears really do love honey and will completely destroy a beehive to get to honey. I will cross that bridge when I get there, (if need be), but a strong fenced enclosure or electric fence are proven barriers for the bears. Barking dogs work well, too.
Lastly, did you know honey bees steal honey from other hives? Yes, siree! They rob each other out, especially in times of low nectar flow (no blooms), and when preparing the hive for winter. If a colony is small and weak, it cannot ward off these invasions of neighboring bees. The robbing bees go in, gorge themselves on honey, and then fly back to their own hive to deposit it. The little colony will not be left with winter stores. Plus, invading bees can bring in Varroa mites and disease, which can cripple the invaded colony.
Who knew that beekeeping could be such a face-off and that one would have to learn to be a bee doctor? However, once made aware of the challenges, and then implementing the tactics, beekeeping can be successful. And for every beekeeping failure, there is an achievement. The satisfaction that comes with having a healthy colony, harvesting your own honey, and listening to the hum of these little pollinators is the driving force to continue this adventure.
This brings me to another valuable component of beekeeping- THE MENTOR. Next time I’d love to share what beekeeping mentoring has meant to me. ???
